Saved from the parts pile: Kenmore 158.1813

Brin, our first rescue dog and my heart dog, had the world’s worst photo on her adoption profile–think ugly duckling. It was bad. So I was surprised how beautiful she was when we picked her up–and she just became more beautiful. This Kenmore has a similar story. Its adoption photo (auction listing) was similarly rough, and I didn’t feel bad buying her for parts. I acquired this sewing machine mainly for its foot controller to get my 158.1913 operational again.

Then I kinda fell in love with it, started to clean it, and discovered she was a great machine that suffered from bad studio lighting and years of neglect. She was soooooo sluggish and the lever that lowers the feed dogs was stuck, but some patience and sewing machine oil got it moving again. Now she purrs and is quieter than some of my newer machines.

The only problem was that I needed to find another foot controller. It’s an unusual model; only a few Kenmores use the #6817, but they show up on eBay now and then. Finally, one was listed on eBay last week for a decent price. It arrived yesterday. Now my parts machine is whole again, and my 1913 has its own foot pedal. Since I found a complete set of accessories for the 1913, the 1813 gets the original set of pattern cams that I acquired. I also have extra super-high-shank attachments, and I think I can put together a good set for each of my three high shanks.

Ultrasonic cleaner: the gadget I didn’t know I needed

I got an ultrasonic cleaner a while back and finally got brave and set it up. Wow, it’s loud. But also a miracle worker. It’s cleaned up dirty, greasy, and rusty parts and makes everything shiny. First I cleaned the spool pins, needle plates and screws, hook assembly, and bobbin case. Then I got brave and put the 1813’s bobbin winder in there. It was stuck open and caked with grease and dust. It came out good as new! Magic! It took some care to get all the water out of the winder, but it wasn’t too bad.

The good and bad (it’s mostly good)

Now that the bobbin winder is operational again, the 1813 still needs a new bobbin winder tire, and that might prove to be an adventure since it looks bigger than my other Kenmore bobbin winder tires. This is a mostly metal machine, but the thread stand and back nameplate are plastic and discolored. The plastic pieces on some old Kenmores become an orange-y-yellow color over time. There’s a way to restore the original beige using hair color developer cream that I might try on the thread stand, but it won’t work on the nameplate. The process removes the lettering, too.

The 1813 is a flat bed machine, so it needs a base or a cabinet. That’s a downside. Although I see cases without machines, the case for a flatbed Kenmore hasn’t come across my radar yet. It made me long for shop class again. I wish I had learned more when I had the chance! There’s a chance that a 3D-printed piece will support the needle end of the machine and keep it steady. I also plan to expand by thrift store searches. A flatbed case is out there! I briefly considered buying another Kenmore in a case for the parts, but we see how well that worked out here. No machine left behind!

This will be a great machine for someone who likes to sew through phone books! That’s a joke, of course, but these old metal machines have a reputation for handling heavy-duty sewing with ease. I want to do a full test sew with the pattern cams once I have the bobbin winder tire. So there might be an update!

Singer 9410

This might be the Clark Kent of the modern-ish Singers—it’s an unassuming machine with a superpower, two actually.

The 9410 is a circa-2000 purchase. It’s a slant-needle Singer with lots of specialty stitches. It uses Class 66 plastic bobbins and 15×1 needles. (Change your needle!) This is one of only two machines I own that I purchased new, so we have all the original accessories and manual. Robert and I took several quilting classes together (so fun!), and he needed his own machine.

Is it vintage? Is it modern? I guess it leans modern, but with a twist. I only learned about this machine’s superpower recently when scrolling through videos from Randy Your Sewing Machine Man. Sewing machines are a bit like people you are close to—you can recognize them in a split second. He shared the 9410’s superpowers: it has an air-powered foot pedal. That means you can operate the machine with your mouth. This information went right to my accessibility lovin’ heart. The other superpower is that the frame is ceramic, like a coffee mug. It was made to be recycled! Randy doesn’t hate this machine, so that’s saying something. He also demonstrates how to thread the machine AND test that it is threaded properly.

• Singer 9410 (Air) has an unknown SUPERPOWER that makes it unique. Light duty. 66 class (video 161)

I dusted this one off, and I am appreciating what good shape this is in. This Singer needs a home where it can be someone’s number one. It deserves that.

Resources

• Blue Creeper penetrating oil and sewing machine oil (SMO): https://bluecreeper.com
• Need Vintage Singer and Kenmore parts? Central Michigan Sewing Supplies is a go-to resource.

A hidden gem, the Kenmore 158.19131

I’m learning to service sewing machines, and I’m starting with my own ever-expanding fleet. Come with me on my sewing machine servicing journey! 

This is the machine that my sister scored at a Goodwill in Maryland. She sent me a photo, and I turned into a hearts-in-eyes emoji in the spot. Get yourself a sister like mine.

This is a beautiful machine. I’m partial to Kenmores, and I like these beige beauties, but this model is a step above with a contrasting cut-out nose piece. This machine was dry and needed oiling, but was not really that dirty. The only bummer was the missing foot pedal. Initially, I thought this was no big deal as replacement foot pedals are usually common and plentiful. But this is from a group of Kenmores with a cut-out offset plug (#6817). Tons of #6816s available. Fewer than a dozen models use the #6817 foot pedal, and I could not find a single foot pedal anywhere, missing a few auctions on eBay.

And—I learned that this is a less-famous but equally prized all-metal, made-in-Japan model.

All that adds up to a shortage of parts, I guess.

So I turned to Goodwill’s online auctions, where I quickly learned that shoppers knew exactly what they were looking at. I had seen a few machines from this family, but the prices were steep. Finally found the 158.1813 and won the auction. The 1813 is the flatbed version of the freearm 158.1913 model.

Both machines use type C pattern cams to accomplish the utility stitches as well as a wide range of decorative stitches. I found a complete set of pattern cams on eBay for the 158.1914, a similar model.

Unfortunately, both machines are missing the default metal cam, #20. This cam enables the built-in utility stitches (everything other than the straight stitch, I think). That’s been IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND, and it is also missing on the 1813. Some good news is that a 3D print file is available, https://www.printables.com/model/579005-kenmore-c-cam-20.

If there is one thing I have learned, it’s to label everything: the cams, the manual, the accessory box, the foot pedal. You think you will remember but you won’t. I’m always on the lookout for miscellaneous boxes of Kenmore parts. You never know what treasures await and  I’ve had some lucky finds.

Learn more! 

• Kenmore 158.1914 pattern cams
• Kenmore Cam Types and Stitches Embroidery: great resource on Kenmore Pattern Cams

Resources

• Blue Creeper penetrating oil and sewing machine oil (SMO): https://bluecreeper.com
• Need Vintage Singer and Kenmore parts? Central Michigan Sewing Supplies is a go-to resource.

I’m learning to service sewing machines, and I’m starting with my own ever-expanding fleet. Come with me on my sewing machine servicing journey! 

This is a machine acquired in a moment of weakness via an online auction at ShopGoodwill.com. Who knows what attracts me to a machine? Sometimes I am a mystery to myself.

This model uses class 66 plastic bobbins and snap-on low-shank presser feet. This machine came with a finger guard around the needle. Finger guards are so smart! Why don’t more machines have them?

The good, bad, and ugly: There’s a lot of plastic here, so it’s really not the best option for heavy-duty sewing. However, it does have left, center, and right needle adjustments. Again, such a useful feature that I don’t have on any of my other machines.

There’s a hairline crack in the hand wheel that might be the result of trying to crank it over thick seams. There was so much grease under the top cover. Grease everywhere it should not have been. Grease goes on gears, and that’s about it.

Singer CG-550 Resources

• Singer CG500C Cleaning and Oiling
• Super Lube Synthetic Grease for gears at Harbor Freight
• Randy, Your Sewing Machine Man, is not a fan—but he still did a video
• CG-550 Parts at Sewing Parts Online

I have a jumbled PDF of the user manual, so I am still on the hunt for a better copy.

Singer Slant-o-matic 404: Part II

I’m learning to service sewing machines, and I’m starting with my own ever-expanding fleet. Come with me on my sewing machine servicing journey! 

We return to this amazing slant-needle Singer machine, the Singer 404.

I gave it a more thorough cleaning, and I replaced the crumbling bobbin winder tire first thing because it was an ongoing source of debris. I purchased replacements from The Sewing Machine Repair Guy. (If you are a Viking sewing machine lover, he may be the key to keeping your beloved machine running.) His Etsy shop offers a rainbow of bobbin winder tire choices. I only planned to buy one, but I could not choose just one after seeing all the options. Most replacements are black, but these: wow. Ooo-la-la! Right now, it has an understated antique white tire, but I might go wild and put the Antique Turquoise tire on my 404.

I like to reunite machines with their original parts. Some of the feet that came with this machine are hard to find and don’t have a modern equivalent, especially in a slant shank. I haven’t tried one yet, but there is a slant shank converter that could offer more options. I am undecided about replacing the foot controller and power cord (about $60). I think it will depend on whether I decide to add this to my personal fleet. Same on upgrading the light bulb to an LED version (about $15). 

Thanks to ISMACS, I have a copy of the manual, and thanks to a well-timed post to one of my vintage machine email lists, I have a copy of the service manual. (Service manuals were made for service technicians and go beyond basic maintenance. They can be especially useful for repairs on vintage machines.) 

I am making my way through the 404-related videos on AndyTube. Stay tuned!

In other machine news: My sister is on the lookout for sewing machines in thrift stores and on Facebook and scored me a free treadle Singer and a beautiful 70s-era high-shank Kenmore for $25. Get yourself a sister like mine. Stay tuned!  

Singer Slant-o-matic 404: Part I

I’m learning to service sewing machines, and I’m starting with my own ever-expanding fleet. Come with me on my sewing machine servicing journey! 

This is one of the Singer slant-needle machines. The 404 was produced from 1955 to 1960. I acquired it from an online auction. It runs, but it needs cleaning and a new bobbin winder tire to replace the one that is disintegrating before my eyes. 

Amazingly, it’s easy to source parts for this machine. The fact that this random auction machine runs is a testament to its staying power. Speaking of power, I might replace the power cord and the foot controller, too. For safety reasons, I keep my antique machines unplugged when not in use. That wiring is older than I am! Some old machines don’t have a power switch, so when they are plugged in, they are “on.” 

I’m in love with the mid-century styling of the Singer 400s and 500s. I’m partial to my 503A (nicknamed the Rocketeer), but I’m trying to familiarize myself with all the slant needle machines. This one is a flat-bed machine, and it came with a latching cover. The cover is in decent shape but needs cleaning, and the trim needs to be reattached on one side. 

If you are trying to date a sewing machine, check out the International Sewing Machine Collectors Society. ISMACS hosts a treasure trove of information, including manuals for many old sewing machines, including the Singer 400 Series Sewing Machine Models.

Here’s the description of the 404 from the ISMACS site:

“Slant shank, gear driven, internal motor, internal light, straight stitch with reverse, bed is 16.5″ wide x 7″ deep. Flip-up bobbin winder on the vertical portion of the arm of the machine just under the handwheel. Has drop in class 66 bobbin in front of needle position accessible by a slide plate. Threads front to back. Thread cutter built into back of presser bar. Has rounded throat plate that raises instead of having feed dogs that lower. Tan and cream in color. The top and handwheel on the machine is cream while the rest is tan.”

No fancy stitches here, but most sewing is done with the good ol’ straight stitch. I actually didn’t realize it had a thread cutter until I read the ISMACS description. I thought thread cutters came standard much, much later. 

The 404 is the no-frills model in this family. The ability to sew in reverse was a game-changer, so I guess no frills is relative. That’s really okay because I have every stitch cam known to woman for the 503. And my Viking Lily has more stitch patterns than I will ever use.

Vintage flat-bed machines were intended to be used in a table or cabinet. I’ll admit that I bought a few machines (including this 404, a 503A and a 338) before realizing that a base or table was more of a necessity than a nice-to-have. I finally learned how to spot a Singer cabinet (rounded corners on the insert) vs. a Kenmore cabinet (sharp corners on the insert), so I have my eyes open for a cabinet that’s been separated from its machine. 

Did I buy a dud?

It did occur to me that I might have bought a worthless machine. So, naturally, I went to see what Randy and Andy had to say, if anything.

Randy the Sewing Machine Man says, “This machine is not only virtually indestructible, it’s also the easiest to master. It will last several lifetimes and will sew almost anything that you need to sew.”

Andy of Andy Tube has a 37-part series on the restoration of a 404. I’m guessing that means it was worth it. And spoiler alert: he named the fully restored machine Jake! (And lucky me to have a thorough guide to refurbishing this machine!)

Whew! The 404 work continues. Stay tuned!

Cute Little Blue Kenmore

I didn’t know until fairly recently that Kenmore Sewing Machines were never made by Sears. They are badged machines, meaning they are manufactured by one company with another company’s logo (or badge). This was—and remains—a very common practice with sewing machines.

I have the Kenmore Mini Ultra Light Sewing Machine 385.11206300 made by Janome in the early 2000s. Mine is a pretty blue machine (it came in other colors) that is not much bigger than my toaster. It’s also shorter than my 6-lb pocket kitty! It weighs almost nothing, and it is tiny compared to my vintage metal behemoths.

This was purchased via an online auction for about $10 plus shipping. It has the familiar front-loading class 15 metal bobbin. It has 16 stitch functions and a built-in 3-step buttonhole. This is not a heavy-duty machine by any stretch, but it’s great for piecing or other light sewing. It’s the type of machine that would be great as a travel machine or for taking to a sewing retreat. It was dirty on the outside, and it needed a new needle, but it’s otherwise in great condition.

My low-shank vintage Kenmore presser feet work great on this machine.

It came with a sad, discolored, and dirty vinyl cover that will get a glow-up one day soon.

Randy, Your Sewing Machine Man, has a video with this model. He’s not a fan of plastic machines, but he takes good care of his customers.

Kenmore 6 Stitch — Again

You know how some employees always seem to get named employee of the month? This is a bit like that. I’m revisiting last month’s machine, the Kenmore 6 Stitch. I love this machine! I was working on a small item, the bear shirt that I mentioned in the makerspace post. This shirt was made from a dress shirt that belonged to my dad, so I wanted to use as many of the elements of the shirt as I could in the mini version. I wanted to preserve the buttons and the buttonholes of the shirt, and of course, the scale of a man’s shirt to a teddy bear shirt is quite different, and I had to rethink the pattern to incorporate the existing placket.

I realized that I needed to add a buttonhole to get the scale right. I have not made a buttonhole in a long time: maybe 20 years.

And I honestly do not know how to create a buttonhole on the machine that I have been predominantly using for the last 20 years, a Viking Lily. I bought the Viking Lily because it has a quarter-inch setting that moves the needle to a quarter-inch away from the edge of the presser foot. This is very handy for quilting or anything with a quarter-inch seam allowance. Quilting doesn’t call for a lot of buttonholes. So I am rusty.

I pulled out the manual for the Kenmore 6, found the buttonhole foot, and sat down to do a test run. I’m not sure it was like riding a bike since I was never particularly good at that, but I did one practice buttonhole it turned out great! I did a second buttonhole on the tiny shirt, and I think it was a good match. It was super easy.

The Kenmore 6 and the Kenmore 8 have a three-step buttonhole with a bar tack stitch across the top, zigzag down the left side, then another bar tack stitch across the bottom, and a zigzag stitch up the right side. There are some adjustments that you can make, and I did that with my practice buttonhole.

For 20-ish years, I really only sewed with the Kenmore 8, so I thought every machine had a bar tack stitch. Sadly, no. It was like catching up with an old friend.

So the Kenmore 6 Stitch earned more time in the spotlight this month thanks to its nice stitching and easy buttonhole that proved to be a good match for the existing buttonholes on the shirt. Sewing win!

Kenmore 6 Stitch

This is a machine that I acquired via an online auction. It arrived in remarkably good condition for a machine sold in the late 1970s. It came in a case, too, also in good condition. I would guess that it only saw occasional use.

This is a 158-series free-arm machine with a removable bed and mostly metal construction. It’s very similar to my Kenmore 8s and in the same model range. (The 6 Stitch is a 158.13400.) It’s a machine I initially acquired because both my Kenmore 8s had seized up. I thought they were goners. I wanted the familiar machine back in my sewing life. I learned free-motion quilting on the Kenmore 8, and I have all the stuff—an extension table, walking foot, and free-motion foot. I haven’t been able to replicate the free motion magic with my newer machines, so I decided to go back to move forward. The Kenmore 6 Stitch seemed to be a very close match to the machine I know and love, and it is quite similar.

A few things I noted about this 6 Stitch: everything was over-tightened. It took forever to coax the needle plate off the machine. (The clutch wheel looked like it had been tightened with vise grips, leaving behind telltale teeth marks on an otherwise unmarred machine.) Hand tightening is enough! Over-tightening is a common issue in sewing machines and can damage parts. The clutch wheel stop seems to be a commonly available part, so I’m looking for a replacement for the chewed-up one.

It’s missing a spool pin (also a common problem—so common that I have extras), and it smelled a little like an old car when I removed it from its case. I gave it a good cleaning and will use one of the specialty cleaners for removing that old sewing machine smell if I need to. (Yes, that’s a thing!)

Unfortunately, it didn’t include a manual or any accessories beyond the one foot on the machine. It’s surprising how many vintage machines include accessories. I have a circa 1925 Singer that came with all but one of the original accessories, plus the original manual, tucked in a baggie inside the case.

I was able to track down the Kenmore 6 manual online. Since I have become the queen of Kenmore 158 accessories, I can put together a decent accessory box. I enjoy matching up random parts to the machine manual’s parts list and making it whole again.

Now that my Kenmore 8s are back up and running, I can look for a new home for this sweet machine. It’s easy to thread, the tension is so simple to set, and the stitch is beautiful IMO. It will be a great machine for someone who sews a little bit of everything.

I’ve been following Phill Faust, A.K.A. BeardDadCardz. He sells Pokémon cards and livestreams from his booth. He’s so great with everyone, and his enthusiasm is so infectious that he makes me want to collect Pokémon cards. He often asks visitors to his booth what they are looking for, their chase card. It made me think about things I chase, like certain sewing machine models.

My chase machine has been a Kenmore 158.1941 from the moment I learned about it. An all-metal machine made in Japan by Maruzen Sewing Machine Company between about 1975 and 1977, the 1941 is considered to be one of the best of the 158 line. It’s a high-shank machine (low-shank is more common). I am not the only one chasing this machine. I bid on lots of them before I won an auction, and some of the bidding was wild with as-is machines going for over $200. Somehow, I got lucky. Sometimes machines aren’t well labeled, so you have to dig for the details. I think I can spot a 1941 on sight at this point after bidding on so many. There are three models that I know of: the 158.19410, 158.19411, and 158.19412.

Unfortunately, my machine is missing the extension bed. It’s a bummer because finding that part will be challenging. But it’s not a huge deal for me from a functionality standpoint because I have other machines with that feature, and I already have an acrylic extension table that I think will fit this machine.

Assessing this 1941
This machine is a portable free-arm machine, so no special case or hinged sewing table is required. It’s in excellent condition, other than the missing extension table. It just needs basic cleaning and lubrication.

What’s special about this machine?
This all-metal machine runs well and has very few dings – quite amazing for a machine about to turn 50. This is another Kenmore that sews through anything. It has a good selection of stitches. I mentioned before that I like reuniting machines with their original accessories. One incredibly lucky break: while the 1941 was still a dream, I bid on a Kenmore accessory set, mostly because of the custom case. When it arrived, I realized I’d hit the jackpot: it’s a high-shank set. I don’t think the seller knew what they had. Now I have a deluxe accessory set with most of the feet. I also found the manual for the machine.